|
The
car pool was full again today, as
it has been recently since it is the
only truck with a working tape player.
Over the last few days we’ve developed
a routine commute: we hop on I-80
(the main piste) drop off Chris
and Dave at “Grant Park” (the Nigersaurus
site), and the truck comes to a final
stop at “North Avenue” (the site where
I, Rudd and Greg are working).
This
morning though, was anything but routine.
|
Allison
Beck, 26, is a fourth year graduate
student at the University of Chicago.
She is working on a Ph.D. in vertebrate
paleontology. Allison is originally
from Memphis, Tennessee.
Photo by Mike Hettwer |
Off
we go, driving in the car, listening to
tunes, when I see, in silhouette, on the
crest of the dune to my right, an imposing
image: cowboys on horses .
“What
are cowboys doing HERE?” I wonder, but before
I can blurt out something stupid, I realize
that the horses are camels.
“Look!
What’s that?!” I yell.
The
five heads in the car turn.
“Hey,
cool!”
We
stop the car and get out.
Touaregs on camelback appeared
on the horizon.
Photo
by Mike Hettwer
The
camels, bearing five Touareg men, head towards
us. Each man is dressed in boubou (a long
shirt almost to the ankles), pants, shesh
(traditional head covering), and flip flops.
Two wear stylish American-style sunglasses
and all of them carry a sword in a leather
sheath slung over their shoulders.
They
dismount and we shake hands.
“Ca
va, Ca va,” (How are you? Fine) we exchange
the common French greeting.
One
of the Touaregs is tall, lanky and, we learn
later, named Ifoudan. One of the men seems
a little older than Ifoudan and the other
three men seem younger, but honestly it
is hard to tell because of their sheshes,
which cover everything except their eyes.
In spite of my unusual and asexual attire,
I am addressed respectfully as “madam.”
Just
as we are trying to figure out who in our
group speaks French, Ifoudan comes forward
and tells us he wants to speak English.
I am surprised, because French is the official
language of Niger and Tomachech is the native
Touareg language; it is unusual to meet
a Touareg who speaks English.
|
“Where
is the Big Man?” Ifoudan asked.
Paul
was working at the Suchomimus
site with Eric, Jack and Tim – not
far away.
“We’ll get him.”
Chris
hops back in the truck and returns
with Paul, Eric and Tim.
Just
as they drove up Ifoudan hands me
the reins to his to camels.
|
Although
they are very tame animals, camels
are enormous and quite imposing. Their
necks are fascinating - they can reach
completely backwards even though they
have the same number of bones as our
necks.
Photo by Mike Hettwer
|
At first I am a bit offended . “Am I being
handed the reins because I am the only woman
and this is some kind of service thing?” But
I am also surprised at how tame the camels
are and I find I am able to walk over to where
everyone is gathering and they follow. While
they stand around, however, I notice that
camels are not the most well-mannered creatures
around. They fidget and gurgle and chew all
the time and eat whatever is in reach – even
the water bags! They are amazing examples
of anatomical interest because they can turn
their heads completely backwards, even though
they have the same number of neck vertebrae
as humans. In addition, when they sit down,
they bend their fore and hindlimbs completely
underneath their bellies and rest flat on
the ground.
| Again
introductions are made and the “big
men” get to talking – in English, with
Tomacheck translations. Unfortunately
I am in the back with the two camels
in tow and have a hard time hearing,
but I hear enough. |
 From
left, Ifoudan, Mohammed Ha Ha, Paul,
a representative, and Eric. The Touaregs
were very upset that we were working
in their home area. Paul and Eric
are listening intensely to Mohammed's
statements.
Photo by Mike Hettwer
|
Ifoudan,
the English speaker, is not the leader of
the group. Rather, the man with a grey beard,
named Mohammed Ha Ha, seems to be in charge.
Because of the language barrier, communication
was difficult and tension is a little high.
I can only pick up bits and pieces of the
conversation.
This
group has come as representatives of the
area, upset because no-one had asked their
permission before we had started work. Paul
explains that he had been given permission
by the government, had met with the Prefect
(the regional director of the Agadez region)
and had met, as well, with the Sultan of
Agadez - the spiritual leader of the Touaregs
in the Agadez region, and all had granted
permission to work. Although someone had
recommended there might be local people
we should visit as well, we didn’t know
where to go, or whom to speak with.
“What
would these men do? How angry were they?
Who was supposed to have told these Touaregs
about us? The Sultan? The Prefect? We have
been here for nearly three weeks. Why hadn’t
this group visited us earlier? Were we doing
something wrong? Would we have to stop work?”
These are the kinds of things I am wondering
about.
After
about an hour, the camels start to grow
restless and I am really beginning to think
we are going to have to pack up and go home
for the rest of the day. Then Ifoudan says,
“It is no problem. You work here.”
 |
Paul and Mohammed lead
the entourage over to the Suchomimus
site. Mohammed has declared the meeting
to be a success.
Photo by Mike Hettwer |
|
We
all breathe a sigh of relief. Paul
tries to further resolve the situation
by telling them that our Touareg team
member/mechanic/diplomat/Tomacheck-speaking
friend Bido will visit the village
to help clear up matters. (Bido is
in Agadez on a supply run).
|
Camels
sound like Chewbacca when they make
noise. Each of these camels has a traditional
Touareg saddle with a high back and
front. The thick ropes around their
necks are for steering with one's feet.
They also wearing grigris for good luck.
Photo by Mike Hettwer |
|
Suddenly
Ifoudan turns around and shouts to me, “Madam!
Sorry! You don’t want ride my camel?”
Of
course this sets off peals of laughter and
I just barely manage to get out “I don’t
know how.”
Ifoudan
and the others talk one of the camels down
to the ground.
Camels
sit awkwardly with their long legs and top-heavy
bodies. I climb onto the saddle. The saddle
is very high and I almost can’t get my leg
up over it. To top everything off, the camel
is groaning like Chewbacca from Star
Wars.
|
Someone
shows me where to put my feet, my
right hand, and my left hand. I think
I am ready and then the animal stands
up, pitching forward 45 degrees and
then backwards 45 degrees. I hold
on for dear life.
I
am up and the view is great! It is
fabulous!
The
camel moves forward a few feet and
people start yelling, “Good bye, Allison!”
Then someone from the team calls out
to Ifoudan, “You can have her for
two camels!”
Very funny.
|
 I
am enjoying my first camel ride, guided
by two Touareg men. Camels are strange-looking
animals with unusual legs and necks.
I am laughing because the guys are
trying to sell me for two camels to
the gentlemen with me.
Photo
by Mike Hettwer
|
My
little ride comes to an end, mostly because
I can’t seem to steer with my feet. I dismount
and someone yells, “Polaroids! Photos!”
The
Touaregs immediately line up and pose. A
few shots are snapped and reviewed by the
nomads. The chief says, “This one no good,”
in funny English. His shesh is down. We
think that is hilarious and take another
one more to his liking.
Then
Paul asks to ride the camel.
“No
problem. No problem.”
The
camel does NOT like Paul. It grumbles and
hisses and gurgles. Then it tries to bite
Paul’s leg. Eventually it stands up and
walks around for a few minutes. When it
comes time to dismount, Paul is less than
elegant. He manages to topple off which
causes Ha Ha Mohammed to fall on his back
and Ifoudan to trip. We all roar with laugher.
The
aura of tension was completely dissipated
with that event, and we were wondering how
things would wind up. But the story doesn’t
end there because Paul realizes he has a
National Geographic magazine with
an article about our dinosaur work in Africa.
The entire crew makes a makeshift parade
to where Paul had been working at the Suchomimus
site.
Paul
showed Ifoudan (left) and the group
an article about our dinosaur work in
Africa. Pictured is Carcharodontosaurus,
from Morocco. Below the magazine is
a plaster jacket of Suchomimus.
Photo by Mike Hettwer |
 |
Ifoudan
stopped to adjust his camel’s reins and I
ask if I could ride with him to the site.
He puts a blanket over the back of the camel,
behind the saddle and motions me forward.
Confident this time, I hop on. He gets in
the saddle and the camel begins to rise. I
slide right off the back end of the camel.
I couldn’t believe it - I managed to ride
- and fall off – my first camel in the space
of two hours.
We
try it again – to Rudd and Dave’s laughter.
This time Ifoudan shows me how to hold on
to the fur and saddle. He stays down on
the ground and leads the camel. It is awesome
riding bareback! I can feel the whole camel
moving as it walks.
At
the site the Touaregs are fascinated by
the plaster jackets and when Paul pulls
out the National Geographic Magazine,
they seem truly astounded to see what we
were “building” from out of their backyard.
It is amazing to me to see how they marveled
at the pictures. These people really have
no concept of the dinosaurs, yet they fully
understand that these bones are very different
from those of the camels and cows that reside
with them. And they are very willing to
share their treasures with scientists like
ourselves, as long as we respect and preserve
their lifestyle and homeland.
After
a tour of the site, the nomads announce
it is time for them to leave, and invite
us to their village. One more camel-back
photo. It takes some coaxing, but finally
the camels line up with the Touaregs on
their backs and the dunes behind them.
Our
newest friends wanted to show off for the
Americans. They mounted their camels and
posed for photos. Afterward, they shouted
"good bye!" and rode off towards their camp.
- Photo by Mike Hettwer
“Au
revoir” (see you again!)
“Merci!”
(Thank you)
Then
Ifoudan turns around and yells, “Madam,
good looking!”
As
they ride off into the distance I know it
will not be long before we see them again.
Allison
Beck
Team Member, 2000 Expedition to Niger.
|
