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November 5, 2000
Agadez
11:05pm

Dinosaur-age
sandstone buttes tower over the Permian-age
plain,
where the team looks for fossils that predate
the dinosaur era.
PERMIAN INTERLUDE
Dave: "I don't want
you to get too excited, but I think I found
a pretty complete skull!"
Chris: "Really? A skull?
What is it?"
Dave: "Beats the heck
out of me."
Chris and Hans, with
the rest of the team in tow, follow Dave
back to the discovery site. On bent knees
we pour over the white outline of a triangular
skull embedded in the grey and red marly
conglomerate.
Not part of a dinosaur,
the skull belongs to an enorrmous predatory
amphibian that prowled the landscape - and
went extinct - before dinosaurs had evolved.
Dave's discoveries -
two skulls within a stone's throw of each
other - were the pieces d'resistance
of our four-day interlude back in time
to the Permian.
Road to Arlit
To reach the Permian,
you take the paved road from Agadez north
to Arlit. As you pass out of Agadez north
on the road to Arlit, you are met with grey
gravel plains and hills. Squat, white, thorn-tipped
acacias and yellow tufts of grass intersperse
the rubble and hearken of greener days.
Here and there tired mounds of sandstone
protrude onto the surface, their layers
soft and worn from the constant buffering
of winds. You have moved out of the sahel
and back into the Sahara. You have also
moved back in time.
Occasionally camels
wallow in the dust along the paved road
until the beeping of a car horn sends them
galumphing on their way. Even more frequently,
scatters of camel and donkey bones, stripped
gleaming white and clean by the sand, tell
of animals that either didn't make it out
of the way of oncoming cars, or didn't make
it to the well in time.
Tall metal scaffolds
stringing electrical wires are startlingly
out of place along this road, which otherwise
is devoid of billboards, advertisements,
or signs of "citified" infrastructure.
Arcing north is a ribbon
of earth that dates back 250 million years
- more than 30 million years before the
earliest dinosaurs had evolved.

We bring good
drinking water from Agadez with us to every
camp.
Sometimes in big balloons, sometimes in
our water tank. At 8.6 pounds per gallon,
the 300 gallon water tank acts like an anchor
in soft sand when it is full. We inched
across this sand pass with the help of sand
ladders.
Our pursuit takes us
not just to the Permian, but also into the
land of uranium. Uranium was Niger's key
export during the height of Cold War. When
the price of uranium plummeted during the
1980s, Niger was thrown into a deep economic
depression. Two mines are still in operation
and their steel and fluorescent light structures,
fenced with barbed wire, seem more appropriate
in America's Midwest rust belt than on the
edge of the Sahara. Occasionally bright
yellow bead-sized nodules can be seen in
small mounds along the side of the road
- sulfurous waste from the excavation process.
As we leave the paved
road and skirt dunes to make our way to
the red-sandstone Permian outcrop, we joke
about the level of radioactivity that might
reside in the fossils we might discover.
Why go to the
Permian?

The field day
begins at dawn, as Paul goes over
the day's plan with the team.
The interlude of four
days north of Agadez gave us a chance to
assist Chris Sidor, who is interested in
vertebrates of the Permian. These include
the famous "pelycosaurs," the sail-backed
reptiles often misconstrued as dinosaurs,
and other groups of reptiles and amphibians.
The Permian world- remarkable
for its mammal-like reptiles and enormous
predatory amphibians - would have looked
very different than the later dinosaur era.
There were no dinosaurs, birds, pterosaurs,
turtles or corocodiles. Instead, a host
of different reptiles abounded, like the
captorhinomorphs that look sort of like
a cross between a lizard and a crocodile.
The Permian is the age
that directly precedes the Triassic, the
first chapter in dinosaur evolution. One
of the greatest extinction episodes ever
to affect the planet occurred at the end
of the Permian and gave dinosaurs and other
plants and animals a chance to flourish.
The "KT" (Cretaceous-Tertiary)
extinction that occurred 65 million years
ago is famed for the demise of the dinosaurs
and 60%-70% of then living species. The
Permo-Triassic extinction, however, was
more devastating: it took out 95% of all
diversity on the planet. It is also less
well understood. Hypotheses for what caused
this blight include asteroids, ocean warmings,
release of oxygen - and carbon dioxide.
But compared to the asteroid crater in the
Yucatan Peninsula identified as "the big
one" at the heart of the dinosaur extinction,
there is little evidence for the cause of
the Permo-Triassic extinction.
There are also only
a few places on the planet that preserve
Permian-age rock; Russia, South Africa,
Morocco are a few of them. Niger is another.

On the hood
of a Land Rover, the first Permian finds
of the day
are identified and wrapped for transport.
For Chris Sidor, a visit
Niger's Permian could make the difference.
Would the beds be fossiliferous? If so,
even just one productive day could give
him much needed-leverage for grants and
a return expedition.
An interlude of four
days would give us a chance to assist Chris,
and put us within a day's drive of unexplored
Cretaceous outcrop as well.
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