Allison Beck, 26, is a fourth year graduate student at the University of Chicago. She is working on a Ph.D. in vertebrate paleontology. Allison is originally from Memphis, Tennessee.

The car pool was full again today, as it has been recently since it is the only truck with a working tape player. Over the last few days we've developed a routine commute: we hop on I-80 (the main piste) drop off Chris and Dave at "Grant Park" (the Nigersaurus site), and the truck comes to a final stop at "North Avenue" (the site where I, Rudd and Greg are working).

This morning though, was anything but routine.

Off we go, driving in the car, listening to tunes, when I see, in silhouette, on the crest of the dune to my right, an imposing image: cowboys on horses .

"What are cowboys doing HERE?" I wonder, but before I can blurt out something stupid, I realize that the horses are camels.

"Look! What's that?!" I yell.

The five heads in the car turn.

"Hey, cool!"

We stop the car and get out.

Touaregs on camelback appeared on the horizon.

The camels, bearing five Touareg men, head towards us.  Each man is dressed in boubou (a long shirt almost to the ankles), pants, shesh (traditional head covering), and flip flops. Two wear stylish American-style sunglasses and all of them carry a sword in a leather sheath slung over their shoulders.

They dismount and we shake hands.

 "Ca va,  Ca va," (How are you? Fine) we exchange the common French greeting.

One of the Touaregs is tall, lanky and, we learn later, named Ifoudan. One of the men seems a little older than Ifoudan and the other three men seem younger, but honestly it is hard to tell because of their sheshes, which cover everything except their eyes. In spite of my unusual and asexual attire, I am addressed respectfully as "madam."

Just as we are trying to figure out who in our group speaks French, Ifoudan comes forward and tells us he wants to speak English.  I am surprised, because French is the official language of Niger and Tomachech is the native Touareg language; it is unusual to meet a Touareg who speaks English. 

"Where is the Big Man?" Ifoudan asked.

Paul was working at the Suchomimus site with Eric, Jack and Tim - not far away.

"We'll get him."

Chris hops back in the truck and returns with Paul, Eric and Tim.

Just as they drove up Ifoudan hands me the reins to his to camels.

Although they are very tame animals, camels are enormous and quite imposing. Their necks are fascinating - they can reach completely backwards even though they have
the same number of bones as our necks.

At first I am a bit offended . "Am I being handed the reins because I am the only woman and this is some kind of service thing?" But I am also surprised at how tame the camels are and I find I am able to walk over to where everyone is gathering and they follow.  While they stand around, however, I notice that camels are not the most well-mannered creatures around.  They fidget and gurgle and chew all the time and eat whatever is in reach - even the water bags!  They are amazing examples of anatomical interest because they can turn their heads completely backwards, even though they have the same number of neck vertebrae as humans.  In addition, when they sit down, they bend their fore and hindlimbs completely underneath their bellies and rest flat on the ground.

From left, Ifoudan, Mohammed Ha Ha, Paul, a representative, and Eric. The Touaregs were very upset that we were working in their home area. Paul and Eric are listening intensely to Mohammed's statements.

Ifoudan, the English speaker, is not the leader of the group. Rather, the man with a grey beard, named Mohammed Ha Ha, seems to be in charge. Because of the language barrier, communication was difficult and tension is a little high. I can only pick up bits and pieces of the conversation.

This group has come as representatives of the area, upset because no-one had asked their permission before we had started work. Paul explains that he had been given permission by the government, had met with the Prefect (the regional director of the Agadez region) and had met, as well, with the Sultan of Agadez  - the spiritual leader of the Touaregs in the Agadez region, and all had granted permission to work. Although someone had recommended there might be local people we should visit as well, we didn't know where to go, or whom to speak with.

 "What would these men do? How angry were they? Who was supposed to have told these Touaregs about us? The Sultan? The Prefect? We have been here for nearly three weeks. Why hadn't this group visited us earlier? Were we doing something wrong? Would we have to stop work?" These are the kinds of things I am wondering about.

After about an hour, the camels start to grow restless and I am really beginning to think we are going to have to pack up and go home for the rest of the day. Then Ifoudan says, "It is no problem. You work here."

Paul and Mohammed lead the entourage over to the Suchomimus site. Mohammed has declared the meeting to be a success.

We all breathe a sigh of relief. Paul tries to further resolve the situation by telling them that our Touareg team member/mechanic/diplomat/Tomacheck-speaking friend Bido will visit the village to help clear up matters.
(Bido is in Agadez on a supply run).

Camels sound like Chewbacca when they make noise. Each of these camels has a traditional Touareg saddle with a high back and front. The thick ropes around their necks are for steering with one's feet. They also wearing gris gris for good luck.

Suddenly Ifoudan turns around and shouts to me, "Madam! Sorry! You don't want ride my camel?"

Of course this sets off peals of laughter and I just barely manage to get out "I don't know how."

Ifoudan and the others talk one of the camels down to the ground.

Camels sit awkwardly with their long legs and top-heavy bodies. I climb onto the saddle. The saddle is very high and I almost can't get my leg up over it. To top everything off, the camel is groaning like Chewbacca from Star Wars.

I am enjoying my first camel ride, guided by two Touareg men. Camels are strange-looking animals with unusual legs and necks. I am laughing because the guys are trying to sell me for two camels to the gentlemen with me.

Someone shows me where to put my feet, my right hand, and my left hand. I think I am ready and then the animal stands up, pitching forward 45 degrees and then backwards 45 degrees.
I hold on for dear life.

I am up and the view is great! It is fabulous! 

The camel moves forward a few feet and people start yelling, "Good bye, Allison!" Then someone from the team calls out to Ifoudan, "You can have her for two camels!"
Very funny.

The Touaregs immediately line up and pose. A few shots are snapped and reviewed by the nomads. The chief says, "This one no good," in funny English. His shesh is down. We think that is hilarious and take another one more to his liking.

Then Paul asks to ride the camel.

"No problem. No problem."

 The camel does NOT like Paul. It grumbles and hisses and gurgles. Then it tries to bite Paul's leg. Eventually it stands up and walks around for a few minutes. When it comes time to dismount, Paul is less than elegant. He manages to topple off which causes Ha Ha Mohammed to fall on his back and Ifoudan to trip. We all roar with laugher.

The aura of tension was completely dissipated with that event, and we were wondering how things would wind up.  But the story doesn't end there because Paul realizes he has a National Geographic magazine with an article about our dinosaur work in Africa. The entire crew makes a makeshift parade to where Paul had been working at the Suchomimus site.

Paul showed Ifoudan (left) and the group an article about our dinosaur work in Africa. Pictured is Carcharodontosaurus, from Morocco. Below the magazine is a plaster jacket of Suchomimus.

We try it again - to Rudd and Dave's laughter. This time Ifoudan shows me how to hold on to the fur and saddle. He stays down on the ground and leads the camel. It is awesome riding bareback! I can feel the whole camel moving as it walks.

At the site the Touaregs are fascinated by the plaster jackets and when Paul pulls out the National Geographic Magazine, they seem truly astounded to see what we were "building" from out of their backyard. It is amazing to me to see how they marveled at the pictures.   These people really have no concept of the dinosaurs, yet they fully understand that these bones are very different from those of the camels and cows that reside with them.  And they are very willing to share their treasures with scientists like ourselves, as long as we respect and preserve their lifestyle and homeland.

After a tour of the site, the nomads announce it is time for them to leave, and invite us to their village. One more camel-back photo. It takes some coaxing, but finally the camels line up with the Touaregs on their backs and the dunes behind them.

Our newest friends wanted to show off for the Americans. They mounted their camels and posed for photos. Afterward, they shouted "good bye!" and rode off towards their camp.

"Au revoir" (see you again!)

"Merci!" (Thank you)

Then Ifoudan turns around and yells, "Madam, good looking!"

As they ride off into the distance I know it will not be long before we see them again.

Allison Beck
Team Member, 2000 Expedition to Niger.